UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO
Prof. John Munro
Department of Economics
TOPICS IN THE ECONOMIC AND SOCIAL HISTORY OF LATE MEDIEVAL AND RENAISSANCE EUROPE, 1260 - 1600
Topic no. 33. Draperies Old and New: the Transformations of the Textile Industries in the Low Countries, England, and France, 1450 - 1600.
A. The Technology of Textile Manufacturing: from Late Roman to Early Modern Times
* 1. J. M. Roland de la Platière, L'art du fabricant d'étoffes en laines (Paris, 1780).
* 2. William Partridge, A Practical Treatise on Dying [sic] of Woollen, Cotton, and Skein Silk (New York, 1823; reissued and edited, with technical notes by J. de L. Mann and K.G. Ponting, Pasold Research Fund, Wilts., 1973).
3. William Beck, The Draper's Dictionary: A Manual of Textile Fabrics, Their History and Applications (London, 1882).
4. J.W. Radcliffe, The Manufacture of Woollen and Worsted Yarns (Manchester and London, 1913).
5. G. Willemsen, 'Technique et l'organisation de la draperie à Bruges, à Gand, et à Malines au milieu du XVIe siècle,' Annales de l'Academie royale d'archéologie de Belgique, 68 (1920), 5-69, 109-75.
* 6. . Abbott P. Usher, A History of Mechanical Inventions (1929; revised edn. Cambridge, Mass. 1954), chapter XI: 'Machinery of the Textile Industries: 100-1800 A.D.', pp. 304-331.
7. E. Kilburn Scott, 'Early Cloth Fulling and Its Machinery,' the Newcomen Society Transactions, 12 (1931-32).
* 8. E.M. Carus-Wilson, 'An Industrial Revolution of the Thirteenth Century,' Economic History Review, 1st series 11 (1941), reprinted in her Medieval Merchant Venturers: Collected Studies (London, 1954), pp. 183-211.
9. George D. Ramsay, The Wiltshire Woollen Industry in the Sixteenth and Seventeenth Centuries (London, 1943; 2nd edn., London, 1965), chapter II: 'The structure of the Wiltshire woollen industry during the sixteenth century: processes and transactions from wool-grower to consumer', pp. 6-30.
* 10. Guy De Poerck, La draperie médiévale en Flandre et en Artois: Technique et terminologie, 3 vols. (Bruges, 1951), Vol. I: la technique [in Science and Medicine Library].
11. Ephraim Lipson, A Short History of Wool and Its Manufacture (London, 1953), chapter VII: 'Processes and Inventions'.
12. J. Tas, Viertalig Textiel-Woordenboek voor de Handel: Nederlands, Duits, Engels, Frans: met alfabetische registers en enkele tableaux (Doetinchem: Uitgevers Mij Misset, 1953).
** 13. R. Patterson, 'Spinning and Weaving,' in Charles Singer, E.J. Holmyard, et al., eds., A History of Technology, Vol. II (Oxford, 1956), pp. 191-200.
14. Walter Endrei, 'L'apparition en Europe du métier à marche,' Bulletin de liaison du centre international d'étude des textiles anciens, no. 8 (July 1958), 22-27. [Available in the library of the Royal Ontario Museum, textile division.]
15. P. Vàczy, 'La transformation de la technique et de l'organisation de l'industrie textile en Flandre aux XI-XIIIe siècles,' Studia Historica Academiae Scientarum Hungaricae, 48 (1960), 3-26.
16. Pierre Deyon, 'Variations de la production textile au XVIe et XVIIIe siècles,' Annales: E.S.C., 18 (1963), 39-55.
* 17. Marta Hoffmann, The Warp-Weighted Loom: Studies in the History and Technology of an Ancient Implement (Oslo, 1964). Despite its odd title and rarified subject (though only in places), it contains one of the most fascinating and comprehensive accounts of the medieval technology of cloth-making in general. [In the Science and Medicine Library.]
* 18. Herbert Heaton, The Yorkshire Woollen and Worsted Industries, 2nd edn. (Oxford, 1965), chapter X, 'The Processes of Manufacture: from the Sheep's Back to the Cloth Hall,' pp. 322-58; and pp. 259-63. [Note: the first edition appeared in 1920; and so substantial are the revisions that there is no point in citing the 1st edition.]
19. Walter Endrei, L'evolution des techniques du filage et du tissage: du moyen âge à la revolution industrielle (The Hague, 1968), pp. 49-135.
* 20. M.L. Ryder, 'The Origin of Spinning,' Textile History, 1 (1968-70), 73-82,
21. Hugo Lemon, 'The Development of Hand Spinning Wheels,' Textile History, 1 (1968-70), 83-91.
22. Eleanora Carus-Wilson, 'Haberget: A Medieval Textile Conundrum,' Medieval Archeology, 13 (1969), 148-66.
23. Donald C. Coleman, 'An Innovation and its Diffusion: The 'New Draperies',' Economic History Review, 2nd ser. 22:3 (1969), 417-29.
* 24. J.P. Wild, Textile Manufacture in the Northern Roman Provinces (Cambridge, 1970).
25. Julia de Lacey Mann, The Cloth Industry in the West of England from 1640-1880 (Oxford, 1971), chapter X: 'The Processes of Manufacture,' pp. 280-307; plus appendices II-V, pp. 311-40.
26. Walter Endrei, 'Changements dans la productivité de l'industrie lainiere au moyen âge,' Annales: E.S.C., 26 (1971), 1291-99.
27. Raymond Van Uytven, 'The Fulling Mill: Dynamic of the Revolution in Industrial Attitudes,' Acta Historiae Neerlandicae, 5 (1971), 1-14.
28. Adam Nahlik, 'Les techniques de l'industrie textile en Europe orientale, du Xe au XVe siècle,' Annales: E.S.C., 26 (1971), 1279-90.
29. J. Geraint Jenkins, ed., The Wool Textile Industry in Great Britain (London, 1972):
a) H. Catling, 'The Evolution of Spinning,' pp. 101-16.
b) Kenneth G. Ponting, 'Cloth Finishing,' pp. 170-84.
30. Adam Nahlik, 'The Interpretation of Textile Remains as a Source for the History of the Textile Industry of the 10th-15th Centuries,' in Marco Spallanzani, ed., Produzione, commercio, e consumo dei panni di lana, nei secoli XII-XVIII (Florence, 1976), pp. 603-12.
31. Patricia Baines, Spinning Wheels, Spinners and Spinning (London, 1977).
32. Agnes Geijer, A History of Textile Art, Pasold Research Fund Publications (London, 1979), chapters 1-4, and 12.
33. Kenneth G. Ponting, ed., Leonardo da Vinci: Drawings of Textile Machines (London, 1979).
34. Walter Endrei, 'La productivité et la technique dans l'industrie textile du XIIIe au XVIIe siècle,' in Sara Mariotti, ed., Produttività e tecnologie nei secoli XII-XVII (1981), 253-62.
35. A. Rupert Hall and N. C. Russell, 'What About the Fulling Mill?' History of Technology, 6 (1981).
36. Dorothy Burnham, Warp and Weft: A Dictionary of Textile Terms (Toronto, 198l).
37. Andrew Woodger, 'The Eclipse of the Burel Weaver: Some Technological Developments in the Thirteenth Century,' Textile History, 12 (1981), 59 - 76.
38. Walter Endrei, and Geoff Egan, 'The Sealing of Cloth in Europe, With Special Reference to the English Evidence,' Textile History, 13 (Spring 1982), 47-76.
* 39. N.B. Harte and K. G. Ponting, eds., Cloth and Clothing in Medieval Europe: Essays in Memory of Professor E. M. Carus-Wilson, Pasold Studies in Textile History no. 2 (London: Heinemann, 1983):
a) John Munro, 'The Medieval Scarlet and the Economics of Sartorial Splendour,' pp. 13-70. Reprinted in John Munro, Textiles, Towns, and Trade: Essays in the Economic History of Late-Medieval England and the Low Countries, Variorum Collected Studies series CS 442 (London, 1994).
b) Judith Hofenk-De Graaff, 'Chemistry of Red Dyestuffs in Medieval and Early Modern Europe,' pp. 71-9.
c) Agnes Geijer, 'The Textile Finds from Birka,' in pp. 80-99.
d) Margaret Nockert, 'A Scandinavian Haberget?' pp. 100-07.
e) Walter Endrei, 'The Productivity of Weaving in Late Medieval Flanders,' pp. 108-19.
f) Philippe Wolff, 'Three Samples of English Fifteenth-Century Cloth,' pp . 120-5.
40. Frances A. Pritchard, 'Late Saxon Textiles from the City of London,' Medieval Archeology, 28 (1984), 46-76.
41. D. L. Carroll, 'Dating the Foot-Powered Loom: The Coptic Evidence,' The American Journal of Archaeology, 2nd ser., 89 (1985), 168-73.
42. Paolo Malanima, 'The First European Textile Machine,' Textile History, 17 (1986), 115 - 28.
43. John Munro, 'Linen,' in Joseph R. Strayer, et al, eds., Dictionary of the Middle Ages, 13 vols. (New York: Charles Scribner's Sons-MacMillan, 1982-89), Vol. VII (1986), pp. 584-6.
44. Merry Wiesner, 'Spinsters and Seamstresses: Women in Cloth and Clothing Production,' in M. Ferguson, M. Quilligan, and N. Vickers, eds., Rewriting the Renaissance: The Discourses of Sexual Differences in Early Modern Europe (Chicago, 1986).
45. G. W. Taylor, 'New Light on Insect Red Dyes of the Ancient Middle East,' Textile History, 18 (Autumn 1987), 143 - 46.
46. John P. Wild, 'The Roman Horizontal Loom,' The American Journal of Archaeology, 2nd ser., 91:3 (July 1987), 459-73.
47. John Munro, 'Scarlet,' and 'Silk,' in Joseph R. Strayer, et al, eds., Dictionary of the Middle Ages, 13 vols. (New York: Charles Scribner's Sons-MacMillan, 1982-89), Vol. XI (1988), pp. 37, 293-6. (1)
* 48. John Munro, 'Textile Technology,' and 'Textile Workers,' in Joseph R. Strayer, et al., eds., The Dictionary of the Middle Ages, Vol. XI (New York: Charles Scribner's Sons, 1988), pp. 693-715. Reprinted in John Munro, Textiles, Towns, and Trade: Essays in the Economic History of Late-Medieval England and the Low Countries, Variorum Collected Studies series CS 442 (London, 1994).
49. Dominique Cardon, Les 'vers' du rouge: insectes tinctoriaux (Homoptera: Coccoidea) utilisés dans l'ancien monde au moyen-âge: essai d'entomologie historique, Cahiers d'histoire et de la philosophie des sciences no. 28, Société française d'histoire des sciences et des techniques, Paris, 1990. See review of this important study in Textile History, 22:1 (Spring 1991), 140-41, by G. W. Taylor.
50. M. L. Ryder, 'The Natural Pigmentation of Animal Textile Fibres,' Textile History, 21 (Autumn 1990), 135 - 48.
* 51. Walter Endrei, 'Manufacturing a Piece of Woollen Cloth in Medieval Flanders: How Many Work Hours?' in Erik Aerts and John Munro, ed., Textiles of the Low Countries in European Economic History (Leuven University Press, 1990), pp. 14-23.
52. Elsa E. Gudjonsson, 'Some Aspects of the Icelandic Warp-Weighted Loom, Vefstaður,' Textile History, 21:2 (Autumn 1990), 165-9.
53. Penelope Walton, 'Textiles,' in John Blair and Nigel Ramsay, eds., English Medieval Industries: Craftsmen, Techniques, Products (London: The Hambledon Press, 1991), pp. 319 - 54.
54. Lise Bender Jørgensen, North European Textiles until AD 1000 (Aarhus: Aarhus University Press, 1992).
55. Michael L. Ryder, 'Fleece Grading and Wool Sorting: The Historical Perspective,' Textile History, 26:1 (Spring 1995), 3-22.
56. John Munro, 'Textiles,' in Frank A. Mantello and George Rigg, eds., Medieval Latin: An Introduction and Bibliographical Guide (Washington, D.C.: Catholic University of America Press, 1996), pp. 474 - 84.
57. Patrick Chorley, 'The Evolution of the Woollen, 1300 - 1700,' in Negley B. Harte, ed., The New Draperies in the Low Countries and England, 1300 - 1800, Pasold Studies in Textile History, Vol. 10 (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1997), pp. 7-34
58. Françoise Piponnier and Perrine Mane, Dress in the Middle Ages (New Haven and London: Yale University Press, 1997).
59. Dominique Cardon, La draperie au moyen âge: essor d'une grande industrie européenne (Paris: CNRSS, 1999).
* 60. John Munro, 'Medieval Woollens: Technology and Industrial Organisation,' and 'Medieval Woollens: The International Commerce in Textiles, 1000-1500 A.D.,' in David Jenkins, ed., The Cambridge History of Western Textiles (Cambridge and New York: Cambridge University Press), forthcoming 2000 or 2001.
See also the journal Textile History, beginning with Vol. I (1968-70).
B. The Low Countries: Rural Draperies, 'Nouvelles Draperies,' and Sayetteries, 1450 - 1700
1. Jules Flammermont, Histoire de l'industrie à Lille (Lille: Progrès du Nord, 1897).
** 2. Henri Pirenne, 'Une crise industrielle au XVIe siècle: la draperie urbaine et la nouvelle draperie en Flandre,' Bulletin de l'Academie royale de Belgique: Classe des Belles Lettres (Brussels, 1905), reprinted in Histoire économique de l'occident médiéval, ed. Emile Coornaert (Bruges, 1951), pp. 621-43. A classic, seminal article, which has unfortunately been responsible for much confusion about the so-called 'nouvelle draperies, draperies légeres, sayetteries, and the English 'New Draperies'.
3. E. Maugis, 'La saietterie à Amiens, 1480-1587,' Vierteljahrschrift für Sozial-und Wirtschaftsgeschichte, 5 (1907), 1-115.
4. Maurice Van Haeck, Histoire de la sayetterie à Lille, 2 vols. (Lille, 1910).
5. M. G. Willemsen, 'Technique et l'organisation de la draperie à Bruges, à Gand, et à Malines au milieu du XVIe siècle,' Annales de l'Academie Royale d'archéologie de Belgique, 68 (1920), 5-175.
6. Georges Espinas, 'Une draperie rurale dans la Flandre française au XVe siècle: la draperie rurale d'Estaires (Nord): 1428-1434,' Revue d'histoire des doctrines économiques et sociales, 11 (1923), 1-44.
7. Emile Coornaert, Une industrie urbaine du XIVe au XVIIe siècle: l'industrie de la laine à Bergues-Saint-Winoc (Paris, 1930).
* 8. Emile Coornaert, La draperie-sayetterie d'Hondschoote, XIVe-XVIIIe siècles (Paris, 1931). A classic. (Read the introduction, at least.)
9. Florence Edler, 'Le commerce d'exportation des sayes d'Hondschoote vers Italie d'après la correspondance d'une firme anversoise, entre 1538 et 1544,' Revue du Nord, 22 (1936), 249-65.
10. Henri De Sagher, 'Une enquête sur la situation de l'industrie drapière en Flandre à la fin du XVIe siècle,' in Etudes d'histoire dédiées à la memoire de Henri Pirenne par ses anciens élèves (Brussels, 1937), pp. 471-500.
** 11. Emile Coornaert, 'Draperies rurales, draperies urbaines: l'evolution de l'industrie flamande au moyen âge et au XVI siècle,' Revue belge de philologie et d'histoire, 28 (1950), 60-96. An excellent study, correcting some of Pirenne's errors; but curiously ignored by most economic historians.
12. J. Demey, 'De mislukte aapassing van de nieuwe draperie, de saainijverhed en de lichte draperie te Ieper (van de XVIe eeuw tot de Franse Revolutie),' Tijdschrift voor geschiedenis, 83 (1950), 222-35.
13. Felicien Favresse, 'Les débuts de la nouvelle draperie bruxelloise, appelée aussi draperie légère,' Revue belge de philologie et d'histoire, 28 (1950), reprinted in his Etudes sur les métiers bruxellois au moyen âge (Brussels, 1961), pp. 59-74.
14. Felicien Favresse, 'La petite draperie bruxelloise, 1416-1466,' Revue belge de philologie et d'histoire, 29 (1951), reprinted in his Etudes sur les métiers bruxellois au moyen âge (Brussels, 1961), pp. 75-84.
15. Federigo Melis, 'Mercanti-imprenditori italiani in Fiandra alla fine de Trecenti,' Economia e storia, 5 (1958), 144-61.
16. Federigo Melis, 'La diffusione nel Mediterraneo occidentale dei panni di Wervicq e delle altre citta della Lys attorna al 1400,' in Studi in onore di Amintore Fanfani, Vol. III: Medioevo (Milan, 1962), pp. 219-43.
17. Federigo Melis, 'L'industrie drapière au moyen âge dans la vallée de la Lys, d'Armentieres à Gand,' in Hulde aan Paul Ferrant-Dalle (Wervik, 1967), pp. 151-61.
18. Pierre Deyon, and A. Lottin, A., 'Evolution de la production textile à Lille aux XVIe et XVIIe siècles,' Revue du Nord, 49 (1967), 23-33.
* 19. Donald C. Coleman, 'An Innovation and its Diffusion: the 'New Draperies',' Economic History Review, 2nd ser. 22:3 (1969), 417-29. Only partly on the Low Countries: mainly on England. A very major and seminal contribution that also contains very serious errors, in both textile technology and in textile history.
20. Jan A. Van Houtte, 'De draperie van Leidse lakens in Brugge, 1503-1516: een vroege poging tot inplanting van nieuwe nijverheden,' in Album Antoon Viaene (Bruges, 1970), pp. 331-39; reprinted in Jan A. Van Houtte, Essays on Medieval and Early Modern Economy and Society, Symbolae Series A, Vol. 5 (Leuven University Press, 1977), pp. 291-302.
21. Alfons K.L. Thijs, 'Hondschootse saiiwevers te Antwerpen,' Bijdragen tot de geschiedenis vizonderlijk van het oude hertogdom Brabant, 54 (1971), 225-40.
* 22. Robert S. DuPlessis and Martha Howell, 'Reconsidering the Early Modern Urban Economy: the Cases of Leiden and Lille,' Past and Present, no. 94 (Feb. 1982), 49-84. More on the Old than on the New Draperies but a very important analysis of chiefly16th century textile production.
* 23. Patrick Chorley, 'The 'Draperies légères' of Lille, Arras, Tournai, Valenciennes: New Materials for New Markets?', in Marc Boone and Walter Prevenier, eds., La draperie ancienne des Pays Bas: débouchés et stratégies de survie (14e - 16e siècles)/ Drapery Production in the late medieval Low Countries: Markets and Strategies for Survival (14th-16th Centuries), Studies in Urban Social, Economic and Political History of the Medieval and Modern Low Countries (Leuven/Appeldorn: Garant, 1993), pp. 151-66. See also the entire contents of this volume, as follows:
a) Marc Boone, 'L'industrie textile à Gand au bas moyen âge, ou les resurrections successive d'une activité réputée moribonde,' pp. 15-61.
b) Peter Stabel, 'Décadence ou survie? Économies urbaines et industries textiles dans les petite villes drapières de la Flandre orientale (14e-16e s.),' pp. 63-84.
c) Martha Howell, 'Weathering Crisis, Managing Change: the Emergence of a New Socioeconomic Order in Douai at the End of the Middle Ages,' , pp. 85-120.
d) Hanno Brand, 'A Medieval Industry in Decline: The Leiden Drapery in the First Half of the Sixteenth Century,' pp. 121-49.
e) Patrick Chorley, 'The 'Draperies légères' of Lille, Arras, Tournai, Valenciennes: New Materials for New Markets?', pp. 151-66.
f) Simonne Abraham-Thisse, 'Le commerce des draps de Flandre en Europe du Nord: Faut-il encore parler du déclin de la draperie flamande au bas moyen-âge?' pp. 167-206.
g) Rudolf Holbach, 'Some Remarks on the Role of 'Putting-out' in Flemish and Northwest European Cloth Production,', pp. 207-50.
24. Marci Sortor, 'Saint-Omer and Its Textile Trades in the Late Middle Ages: A Contribution to the Proto-industrialization Debate,' The American Historical Review, 98:4 (October 1993), 1475-99.
* 25. John Munro, 'The Origins of the English 'New Draperies': The Resurrection of an Old Flemish Industry, 1270 - 1570,' in Negley B. Harte, ed., The New Draperies in the Low Countries and England, 1300 - 1800, Pasold Studies in Textile History no. 10 (Oxford and New York: Oxford University Press, 1997), pp. 35 - 127. Note my differences from the views of Pirenne, Coleman, and Coornaert. See also the review, by Karel Davids (Amsterdam) in Journal of Economic History, 59:3 (Sept. 1999), 801-03.
26. Carla Rahn Phillips and William D. Phillips, Spain's Golden Fleece: Wool Production and the Wool Trade from the Middle Ages to the Nineteenth Century (Baltimore and London: The Johns Hopkins Press, 1997).
27. Cor Trompetter, Agriculture, Proto-Industry, and Mennonite Entrepreneurship: a History of the Textile Industries in Twente, 1600 - 1815 (Amsterdam: NEHA, 1997).
28. John Munro, 'Textiles as Articles of Consumption in Flemish Towns, 1330 - 1575,' Bijdragen tot de geschiedenis, 81:1-3 (1998), 275-88. With a Dutch summary. (2)
29. Herman Van der Wee, 'Consumptie van textiel en industriële ontwikkeling in de steden van de Nederlanden tijdens de late middeleeuwen en nieuwe tijd: aanzet tot een werkhypothese,' Bijdragen tot de geschiedenis, 1-3 (1998): 339-50. [Special issue: 'Proeve 't al, 't is prysselyck: Verbruik in Europese steden (13de - 18de eeuw)/Consumption in European Towns (13th-18th Century): Liber Amicorum Raymond van Utyven]
C. Woollen Textiles in England, to 16th Century
1. William Ashley, The Early History of the English Woollen Industry (Baltimore, 1887).
2. Toulmin Smith, ed., English Gilds: The Original Ordinances of More Than One Hundred Early English Gilds, with introductions by Lucy Toulmin Smith and Lujo Bretano, Early English Text Society (London: Oxford University Press, 1894).
3. Eileen Power, Medieval People (London, 1924), chapter VI: 'Thomas Paycocke of Coggeshalle, An Essex Clothier in the Days of Henry VII,' pp. 161-83.
4. George Unwin, 'Woollen Cloth: The Old Draperies,' in The Victoria History of the Counties of England: A History of the County of Suffolk, Vol. II (London, 1907); reprinted as 'The History of the Cloth Industry in Suffolk,' in his Studies in Economic History: Collected Papers, ed. R.H. Tawney (London, 1927), pp. 262-301.
5. Maud Sellers, 'The Textile Industries,' in William Page, ed., The Victoria History of the Counties of England: A History of the County of York, 3 vols. (London: Constable, 1907 - 1913), Vol. II (1912), pp. 406 - 29. See also:
6. Maud Sellers, 'Social and Economic History,' in William Page, ed., The Victoria History of the Counties of England: A History of the County of York, Vol. III (1913), pp. 435 - 86.
7. Norman S.B. Gras, The Early English Customs System: A Documentary Study of the Institutional and Economic History of the Customs from the Thirteenth to the Sixteenth Century, Harvard Economic Studies vol. xviii (Cambridge, Mass. 1918). For the wool and cloth customs.
8. Eileen Power, The Paycockes of Coggeshall (London, 1920).
9. A.P. Usher, The Industrial History of England (Boston, 1920), chapter VIII: 'Woollen Industries, 1450-1750,' pp. 195-224.
10. Ephraim Lipson, The History of the English Woollen and Worsted Industries (London, 1921).
11. Louis Francis Salzman, English Industries of the Middle Ages, new edn. (Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1923), chapter 9, 'Clothmaking,' pp. 194 - 244.
11. H.L. Gray, 'The Production and Exportation of English Woollens in the Fourteenth Century,' English Historical Review, 39 (1924), 13-55.
12. Henri De Sagher, 'L'immigration des tisserands flamands et brabançons en Angleterre sous Edward III,' Mélanges d'histoire offerts à Henri Pirenne, 2 vols. (Brussels, 1926).
13. E.M. Carus-Wilson, 'The Aulnage Accounts: A Criticism,' Economic History Review, 1st ser. 2 (1929); reprinted in Eleanora M. Carus-Wilson, Medieval Merchant Venturers: Collected Studies (London: Methuen, 1954), pp. 279-91.
14. Francis Consitt, The London Weavers' Company, Vol. I: From the Twelfth Century to the Close of the Sixteenth Century (1933).
15. H.L. Gray, 'English Foreign Trade from 1446 to 1482,' in E. Power and M. Postan, eds. Studies in English Trade in the Fifteenth Century (London, 1933), pp. 1-38.
16. Florence Edler, 'Winchcombe Kerseys in Antwerp (1538-44),' Economic History Review, 1st ser. 7 (1936-37), 57-62.
17. Ephraim Lipson, The Economic History of England, Vol. I: Middle Ages (London, 1937), chapter IX: 'Woollen Industry,' 440-510.
18. George Unwin, The Gilds and Companies of London, 3rd ed. (London, 1938).
19. E.M. Carus-Wilson, 'An Industrial Revolution of the Thirteenth Century,' Economic History Review, 1st ser. 11 (1941), reprinted in E.M. Carus-Wilson, ed., Essays in Economic History, I (London, 1954), 41-60; and also reprinted in Eleanora M. Carus-Wilson, Medieval Merchant Venturers: Collected Studies (London: Methuen, 1954), pp. 183-210.
20. George D. Ramsay, The Wiltshire Woollen Industry in the Sixteenth and Seventeenth Centuries (Oxford, 1943; 2nd edn. London, 1965).
21. E.M. Carus-Wilson, 'The English Cloth Industry in the Twelfth and Thirteenth Centuries,' Economic History Review, 1st ser. 14 (1944); reprinted in Eleanora M. Carus-Wilson, Medieval Merchant Venturers: Collected Studies (London: Methuen, 1954), pp. 211-38.
22. Kenneth G. Ponting, 'The Weavers and Fullers of Marlborough,' Wiltshire Archeological and Natural History Magazine, 53 (1949), 113-17.
23. E.M. Carus-Wilson, 'Trends in the Export of English Woollens in the Fourteenth Century,' Economic History Review, 2nd ser. 3 (1950), 162-79; reprinted in Eleanora M. Carus-Wilson, Medieval Merchant Venturers: Collected Studies (London: Methuen, 1954), pp. 239-64.
24. H.C. Darby, ed., An Historical Geography of England Before A.D. 1800 (1951), chapters by Pelham on textiles, pp. 247-56, and pp. 304-24.
** 25. E.M. Carus-Wilson, 'The Woollen Industry,' in M. M. Postan and E. E. Rich, eds., Cambridge Economic History, Vol. II (Cambridge, 1952), pp. 398-29 (Sections V: 'Crisis and Transformation in the North,' and VI: 'Triumph of the English Industry'); reissued, with a few revisions in M.M. Postan and Edward Miller, eds., The Cambridge Economic History of Europe, Vol. II: Trade and Industry in the Middle Ages, 2nd rev. edn. (Cambridge, 1987), pp. 657-90.
26. Eleanor M. Carus-Wilson, 'La guède française en Angleterre: un grand commerce du moyen âge,' Revue du Nord, 35 (1953), 89-
26. Eleanora M. Carus-Wilson, Medieval Merchant Venturers: Collected Studies (London: Methuen, 1954).
27. Kenneth Ponting, A History of the West of England Cloth Industry (London, 1957).
* 28. E.M. Carus-Wilson, 'Wiltshire: The Woollen Industry Before 1550,' in Elizabeth Crittall, ed., in The Victoria History of the Counties of England: A History of Wiltshire, Vol. IV (London, Oxford Press, 1959), pp. 115-47.
29. E.M. Carus-Wilson, 'Evidences of Industrial Growth on Some Fifteenth-Century Manors,' Economic History Review, 2nd ser. 12 (1959), 190-205; reprinted in Carus-Wilson, ed., Essays in Economic History, Vol. II (London, 1962), pp. 151-67.
30. J. N. Bartlett, 'The Expansion and Decline of York in the Later Midle Ages,' Economic History Review, 2nd ser., 12 (1959-60), 17 - 33.
31. J.E. Pilgrim, 'The Rise of the 'New Draperies' in Essex,' University of Birmingham Historical Journal, 7 (1959-60), 36-59.
32. K.J. Allison, 'The Norfolk Worsted Industry in the Sixteenth and Seventeenth Centuries, 1: The Traditional Industry,' Yorkshire Bulletin of Economic and Social Research, 12 (1960), 73-83.
33. K. J. Allison, 'The Norfolk Worsted Industry in the Sixteenth and Seventeenth Centuries, 2: The New Draperies,' Yorkshire Bulletin of Economic and Social Research, 13 (1961), 61-77.
34. A.R. Bridbury, Economic Growth: England in the Later Middle Ages (London, 1962). Has a considerable amount of material on the wool and cloth trades.
* 35. Herbert Heaton, The Yorkshire Woollen and Worsted Industries from the Earliest Times to the Industrial Revolution, 2nd edn. (Oxford, 1965), chapters 1-3. [Note: the 1st edn. of 1920 is too outdated to be worth citing.]
* 36. Edward Miller, 'The Fortunes of the English Textile Industry in the Thirteenth Century,' Economic History Review, 2nd ser. 18 (1965), 64-82.
37. T. H. Lloyd, 'Some Costs of Cloth Manufacturing in Thirteenth-Century England,' Textile History, 1 (1968-70), 332-6.
38. Donald C. Coleman, 'An Innovation and its Diffusion: The 'New Draperies',' Economic History Review, 2nd ser. 22:3 (1969), 417-29. As noted above: a very major and seminal contribution that also contains very serious errors, in both textile technology and in textile history.
39. Kenneth G. Ponting, The Woollen Industry of South-West England: An Industrial, Economic, and Technical Survey (Bath and New York: Augustus Kelley, 1971).
40. J. Geraint Jenkins, ed., The Wool Textile Industry in Great Britain (London: Routledge, 1972): see the following:
a) Eric Kerridge, 'Wool Growing and Wool Textiles in Medieval and Early Modern Times,' pp. 19-33.
b) John Pilgrim, 'The Cloth Industry in East Anglia,' pp. 252-68.
41. Norman Lowe, The Lancashire Textile Industry in the Sixteenth Century (1972).
42. Walter Endrei, 'English Kerseys in Eastern Europe with Special Reference to Hungary,' Textile History, 5 (1974), 90-99.
43. Kenneth G. Ponting, Wool and Water: Bradford-on-Avon and the River Frame (Bath, 1975).
44. E.B. Fryde, 'The English Cloth Industry and the Trade with the Mediterranean, c. 1370 - c. 1530,' in Marco Spallanzani, ed., Produzione, commercio e consumo de panni di lana nei secoli XII - XVII (Florence: Olshcki, 1976), pp. 343-67, reprinted in his Studies in Medieval Trade and Finance (London, 1983).
45. P.D.Z. Harvey, 'The English Trade in Wool and Cloth, 1150 - 1250: Some Problems and Suggestions,' in Marco Spallanzani, ed., Produzione, commercio e consumo dei panni di lana (nei secoli XXI - XVIII), Istituto internazionale di storia economica 'F. Datini' Prato, Series II: Atti delle 'Settimane di Studio' e altri convegni (Florence: Leo S. Olschki, 1976), pp. 369 - 76.
46. Peter H. Ramsey, 'Two Early Tudor Cloth Merchants: Sir Thomas Kitson and Sir Thomas Gresham,' in Marco Spallanzani, ed., Produzione, commercio e consumo dei panni di lana (nei secoli XII - XVIII), Atti della Seconda Settimana de Studio, 10-16 april 1970 (Florence: Leo S. Olschki, 1976), pp. 385-89.
47. J. L. Bolton, The Medieval English Economy, 1150-1500 (London: J.M. Dent, 1980), pp/ 150-206 (chapters 5 & 6), 246-319 (chapters 8 & 9).
47. Andrew Woodger, 'The Eclipse of the Burel Weaver: Some Technological Developments in the Thirteenth Century,' Textile History, 12 (1981), 59-76. An interesting, but basically flawed attempt to explain the rise of the English woollen broadcloth industry.
* 48. A.R. Bridbury, Medieval English Clothmaking: An Economic Survey (London: Heinemanns, 1982). A very important study, very concisely presented in 125 pp. But also a typical Bridbury product: very controversial; attacks other peoples' research, without ever doing much of his own. Just the same, a fascinating and illuminating study.
49. Philippe Wolff, 'Three Samples of English Fifteenth-Century Cloth,' in N. B. Harte and K. G. Ponting, eds. Cloth and Clothing in Medieval Europe (1983), pp. 120-25.
50. Volker Henn, ' 'The Libelle of Englyshe Polycye': Politik und Wirtschaft in England in den 30er Jahren des 15. Jahrhunderts,' Hansische Geschichtsblätter, 101 (1983), 44 - 65.
51. Ursula Priestley, 'The Fabric of Stuffs: the Norwich Textile Industry, c. 1650 - 1750,' Textile History, 16:2 (Autumn 1985), 183 - 210.
52. Derek J. Keene, Survey of Medieval Winchester, Winchester Studies no. 2, 2 vols. (Oxford: Clarendon Press), 1985.
52. Eric Kerridge, Textile Manufactures in Early Modern England (Manchester, 1985).
53. Richard H. Britnell, Growth and Decline in Colchester, 1300 - 1525 (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1986). With considerable information on the Essex cloth industry.
54. Patrick Chorley, 'The English Assize of Cloth: a Note,' Bulletin of the Institute of Historical Research, 59 (1986), 125-30.
54. Vanessa Harding, 'Some Documentary Sources for the Import and Distribution of Foreign Textiles in Late Medieval England,' Textile History, 18 (Autumn 1987), 205 - 18.
55. Kay Lacey, 'The Production of 'Narrow Ware' by Silkwomen in Fourteenth and Fifteenth-Century England,' Textile History, 18 (Autumn 1987), 187 - 204.
56. Patrick Chorley, 'English Cloth Exports During the Thirteenth and Early Fourteenth Centuries: the Continental Evidence,' Historical Research: The Bulletin of the Institute of Historical Research, 61:144 (February 1988), 1-10.
57. Heather Swanson, 'The Illusion of Economic Structure: Craft Guilds in Late Medieval English Towns,' Past & Present, no. 121 (November 1988), pp. 29 - 48.
58. Heather Swanson, Medieval Artisans: An Urban Class in Late Medieval England (Oxford: Basil Blackwell, 1989).
57. Anne F. Sutton, 'The Early Linen and Worsted Industry of Norfolk and the Evolution of the London Mercers' Company,' Norfolk Archaeology: A Journal of Archaeology and Local History, 40 (1989), 201 - 225.
58. Michael Gervers, 'The Textile Industry in Essex in the Late 12th and 13th Centuries: A Study Based on Occupational Names in Charter Sources,' Essex Archaeology and History: The Transactions of the Essex Society for Archaeology and History, 3rd series, 20 (1989), 34 - 73.
59. Wolf-Rüdiger Baumann, The Merchants Adventurers and the Continental Cloth Trade (1560s - 1620s), European University Institute Series B.2 (Berlin and New York: Walter de Gruyter, 1990).
60. Derek Keene, 'Textile Manufacture: The Textile Industry,' in Martin Biddle, ed., Object and Economy in Medieval Winchester, Winchester Studies, vol. 7.ii (Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1990), pp. 200-40.
60. Ursula Priestley, The Fabric of Stuffs: The Norwich Textile Industry from 1565, Centre of East Anglian Studies, University of East Anglia (Norwich, 1990).
61. Scott L. Waugh, England in the Reign of Edward III, Cambridge Medieval Textbooks (Cambridge University Press, 1991), Part II: 'Economic Challenges', pp. 21 - 113.
* 62. John Munro, 'Industrial Transformations in the North-West European Textile Trades, c. 1290 - c. 1340: Economic Progress or Economic Crisis?' in Bruce M. S. Campbell, ed., Before the Black Death: Studies in the 'Crisis' of the Early Fourteenth Century (Manchester and New York: Manchester University Press, 1991), pp. 110 - 48. Reprinted in John Munro, Textiles, Towns, and Trade: Essays in the Economic History of Late-Medieval England and the Low Countries, Variorum Collected Studies series CS 442 (London, 1994).
63. John Munro, 'Die Anfänge der Übertragbarkeit: einige Kreditinnovationen im englisch-flämischen Handel des Spätmittelalters (1360 - 1540),' in Michael North, ed., Kredit im spätmittelalterlichen und frühneuzeitlichen Europa, Quellen und Darstellungen zur Hansischen Geschichte, vol. 37 (Cologne-Vienna: Böhlau Verlag, 1991), pp. 39 - 69. Involves credit in the English wool and cloth trades with the late-medieval Low Countries. The following is a somewhat different version (with additional research), in English.
64. John Munro, 'The International Law Merchant and the Evolution of Negotiable Credit in Late-Medieval England and the Low Countries,' in Dino Puncuh and Giuseppe Felloni, eds., Banchi pubblici, banchi privati e monti di pietà nell'Europa preindustriale: amministrazione, tecniche operative e ruoli economici (Genoa: Società Ligure di Storia Patria, 1991), pp. 29 - 62. Involves credit in the English wool and cloth trades with the Low Countries. See the preceding citation. Reprinted in John Munro, Textiles, Towns, and Trade: Essays in the Economic History of Late-Medieval England and the Low Countries, Variorum Collected Studies series CS 442 (London, 1994).
65. Penelope Walton, 'Textiles,' in John Blair and Nigel Ramsay, eds., English Medieval Industries: Craftsmen, Techniques, Products (London: The Hambledon Press, 1991), pp. 319 - 54.
66. Kay Staniland, 'Clothing Provision and the Great Wardrobe in the Mid-Thirteenth Century,' Textile History, 22:2 (Autumn 1991), 239 - 252.
67. Anne F. Sutton, 'Order and Fashion in Clothes: The King, His Household, and the City of London at the End of the Fifteenth Century,' Textile History, 22:2 (Autumn 1991), 253 - 76.
68. Lloyd, T.H., England and the German Hanse, 1157 - 1611: A Study of Their Trade and Commercial Diplomacy (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1991). Very important analyses of the English cloth export trade.
68. Elisabeth Crowfoot, Frances Pritchard, and Kay Staniland, eds., Medieval Finds from Excavations in London, Vol. IV: Textiles and Clothing, c. 1150 - c. 1450, Museum of London (London: Her Majesty's Stationery Office, 1992).
69. M. Bonney, 'The English Medieval Wool and Cloth Trade: New Approaches for the Local Historian,' The Local Historian, 22 (1992), 33-
69. Ian Blanchard, 'Northern Wools and Netherlands Markets at the Close of the Middle Ages,' Studies in Economic and Social History Discussion Papers, Department of Economic and Social History, University of Edinburgh, no. 92:3 (Edinburgh, 1992), pp. 3-15. Republished in Proceedings of the Third Mackie Symposium for Historical Study of Scotland's Overseas Links: Scotland and the Low Countries. 800 Years of North Sea Contacts (Aberdeen, 1993).
70. John Munro, Textiles, Towns, and Trade: Essays in the Economic History of Late-Medieval England and the Low Countries, Variorum Collected Studies series CS 442 (Aldershot, Hampshire; and Brookfield, Vermont: Ashgate Publishing Ltd., 1994).
71. Ursula Priestley, 'The Marketing of Norwich Stuffs, c. 1660 - 1730,' Textile History, 22:2 (Autumn 1991), 193 - 210.
* 72. John Munro, 'Anglo-Flemish Competition in the International Cloth Trade, 1340 - 1520,' in Jean- Marie Cauchies, ed., L'Angleterre et les pays bas bourguignonnes: relations et comparaisons, XVe - XVIe siècle [Rencontres d'Oxford (septembre 1994), annual issue of Centre Européen d'Études Bourguignonnes, 35 (1995)], pp. 37-60. Serial publication: DC 611 B771 C42..
73. Edward Miller and John Hatcher, Medieval England: Towns, Commerce and Crafts, 1086 - 1348 (London: Longman, 1995), pp. 85-127.
74. Derek Keene, 'Textile Terms and Occupations in Medieval Winchester,' Ler História, 30 (1996), 135-47.
74. Wendy Childs, 'The English Export Trade in Cloth in the Fourteenth Century,' in Richard Britnell and John Hatcher, eds., Progress and Problems in Medieval England: Essays in Honour of Edward Miller (Cambridge and New York: Cambridge University Press, 1996), pp. 121-47.
75. Michael Zell, 'Credit in the Pre-Industrial English Woollen Industry,'The Economic History Review, 2nd ser., 49:4 (Nov. 1996), 667-91. Largely for the subsequent era, but still relevant for the late-medieval period.
76. John Munro, 'The Origins of the English 'New Draperies': The Resurrection of an Old Flemish Industry, 1270 - 1570,' in Negley B. Harte, ed., The New Draperies in the Low Countries and England, 1300 - 1800, Pasold Studies in Textile History no. 10 (Oxford and New York: Oxford University Press, 1997), pp. 35 - 127. Note my differences from the views of Pirenne, Coleman, and Coornaert. See also the review, by Karel Davids (Amsterdam) in Journal of Economic History, 59:3 (Sept. 1999), 801-03.
77. John Munro, 'Cloth Manufacture and Trade,' in Joel Rosenthal, et al, eds., Medieval England: An Encyclopedia (New York and London: Garland Press, 1998), pp. 194-977.
78. John Munro, 'Cloth Manufacture and Trade,' in Medieval England: An Encyclopedia, ed. Paul Sarmach, M. Teresa Tavormina, and Joel Rosenthal (New York and London: Garland Publishing, 1998), pp. 194-97.
* 79. John Munro, 'The Symbiosis of Towns and Textiles: Urban Institutions and the Changing Fortunes of Cloth Manufacturing in the Low Countries and England, 1270 -1570,' The Journal of Early Modern History: Contacts, Comparisons, Contrasts, 3:1 (February: 1999): 1-74.
* 80. John Munro, 'The 'Industrial Crisis' of the English Textile Towns, 1290 - 1330,' Thirteenth-Century England, vol. VII, ed. Michael Prestwich, Richard Britnell, and Robin Frame (Woodbridge, UK: Boydell Press, 1999), pp. 103-41.
* 81. J.N. Hare, 'Growth and Recession in the Fifteenth-Century Economy: the Wiltshire Textile Industry and the Countryside,' The Economic History Review, 2nd ser., 52:1 (February 1999), 1-26.
D. The Textile Industries in England, the Old and New Draperies, 1500 - 1750:
1. George Unwin, 'The History of the Cloth Industry in Suffolk: (i) The Old Draperies; (ii) The New Draperies,' in William Page, ed., The Victoria History of the Counties of England: A History of the County of Suffolk, Vol. II (London, 1907), pp. 254 - 71; reprinted in Studies in Economic History: Collected Papers, ed. R.H. Tawney (London, 1927), pp. 262-301.
2. Maud Sellers, 'The Textile Industries,' in William Page, ed., The Victoria History of the Counties of England: A History of the County of York, 3 vols. (London: Constable, 1907 - 1913), Vol. II (1912), pp. 406 - 29.
3. A.P. Usher, The Industrial History of England (Boston, 1920), Chapter VIII: 'Woollen Industries, 1450-1750,' pp. 195-224.
4. Eileen Power, The Paycockes of Coggeshalle (London, 1920).
5. Ephraim Lipson, The History of the English Woollen and Worsted Industries (London, 1921).
6. B. McClenaghan, The Springs of Laveham and the Suffolk Cloth Trade in the XV and XVI Centuries (Ipswich, 1924).
7. Astrid Friis, Alderman Cockayne's Project and the Cloth Trade (Copenhagen, 1927).
8. Ephraim Lipson, The Economic History of England, Vol. II: The Age of Mercantilism (London, 1931; 6th edn. 1956), Chapter 1, 'Industry,' pp. 10 - 112 (on textiles).
9. F. Consitt, The London Weavers' Company, Vol. I: From the Twelfth Century to the Close of the Sixteenth Century (1933).
10. George D. Ramsay, The Wiltshire Woollen Industry in the Sixteenth and Seventeenth Centuries (London, 1943; 2nd ed. 1965).
11. N.J. Williams, 'Two Documents Concerning the New Draperies,' Economic History Review, 2nd ser. 4 (1951-52), 353-58.
12. Ephraim Lipson, A Short History of Wool and its Manufacture (London, 1953), Chapters 1-3.
13. T.C. Mendenhall, The Shrewsbury Drapers and the Welsh Wool Trade in the XVIth and XVIIth Centuries (Oxford, 1953).
14. Peter J. Bowden, 'The Home Market in Wool, 1500-1700,' Yorkshire Bulletin of Economic and Social Research, 8 (1956).
15. Peter Bowden, 'The Wool Supply and the Woollen Industry,' Economic History Review, 2nd ser. 9 (1956-57), 44-58.
16. Kenneth G. Ponting, A History of the West of England Cloth Industry (1957).
17. W.B. Stephens, Seventeenth-Century Exeter (London, 1958). Has a considerable amount on the textile industry.
18. Kevin H. Burley, 'An Essex Clothier of the Eighteenth Century,' Economic History Review, 2nd ser. 11 (1958), 289 - 301.
19. Elizabeth Critall, ed., The Victoria History of the Counties of England: A History of Wiltshire, Vol. IV (London, 1959):
(a) Eleanora Carus-Wilson, 'The Woollen Industry Before 1500,' pp. 115-47.
(b) Julia de Lacy Mann, 'Textile Industries since 1550,' pp. 148-82.
* 20. John E. Pilgrim, 'The Rise of the "New Draperies" in Essex,' University of Birmingham Historical Journal, 7 (1959-60), 36 - 59.
* 21. Charles Wilson, 'Cloth Production and International Competition in the Seventeenth Century,' Economic History Review, 2nd ser. 13 (1960), reprinted in Charles Wilson, Economic History and the Historian: Collected Essays (London, 1969), pp. 94-113.
22. Julia de Lacy Mann, 'Clothiers and Weavers in Wiltshire during the Eighteenth Century,' in L.S. Pressnell, ed., Studies in the Industrial Revolution Presented to T. S. Ashton (London, 1960).
23. K.J. Allison, 'The Norfolk Worsted Industry in the Sixteenth and Seventeenth Centuries, I: The Traditional Industry,' Yorkshire Bulletin of Economic and Social Research, 12 (1960), 73-83.
24. K.J. Allison, 'The Norfolk Worsted Industry in the Sixteenth and Seventeenth Centuries, II: The New Draperies,' Yorkshire Bulletin of Economic and Social Research, 13 (1961), 61-77.
* 25. Peter Bowden, The Wool Trade in Tudor and Stuart England (London, 1962), pp. 1-76.
26. Pierre Deyon, 'Variations de la production textile au XVIe et XVIIIe siècles,' Annales: E.S.C., 18 (1963), 39-55.
* 27. Barry Supple, Commercial Crisis and Change: England, 1600-1642 (Cambridge, 1964), Chapters 2, 3, 5, and 7: on the cloth trades, the Old and New Draperies.
* 28. Herbert Heaton, The Yorkshire Woollen and Worsted Industries from the Earliest Times to the Industrial Revolution, 2nd edn. (Oxford, 1965), Chapters 1-3. [The first edition was published in 1920; but this edition has so substantially revised the original that there is no point citing it.]
29. Jennifer Tann, Gloucestershire Woollen Mills (London, 1967).
* 30. Donald C. Coleman, 'An Innovation and its Diffusion: The `New Draperies',' Economic History Review, 2nd ser. 22:3 (1969), 417-29. An important, provocative, interesting, but rather misleading article in many places.
31. Julia de Lacy Mann, The Cloth Industry in the West of England from 1640 to 1880 (Oxford, 1971).
32. Kenneth G. Ponting, The Woollen Industry of South-West England (Bath, 1971).
33. D.W. Jones, 'The "Hallage" Receipts of the London Cloth Markets, 1562 - ca. 1720,' Economic History Review, 2nd ser. 25 (1972), 567-87.
34. Penny Corfield, 'A Provincial Capital in the Late Seventeenth Century: the Case of Norwich,' in P. Clark and P. Slack, eds., Crisis and Order in English Towns, 1500 - 1700 (London, 1972). Concerns worsted textile-manufacturing.
35. N. Lowe, The Lancashire Textile Industry in the Sixteenth Century (London, 1972).
* 36. J. Geraint Jenkins, ed., The Wool Textile Industry in Great Britain (London, 1972). See in particular:
* a) Eric Kerridge, 'Wool Growing and Wool Textiles in Medieval and Early Modern Times,' pp. 19 - 33.
b) David Seward, 'The Wool Textile Industry, 1750 - 1960,' pp. 34 - 50.
c) M. T. Wild, 'The Yorkshire Wool Textile Industry,' pp. 185-234.
d) K. G. Ponting, 'The West of England Cloth Industry,' pp. 252 - 68.
* e) John E. Pilgrim, 'The Cloth Industry in East Anglia,' pp. 269 - 80.
37. N.B. Harte and K.G. Ponting, eds., Textile History and Economic History: Essays in Honour of Miss Julia de Lacy Mann (Manchester University Press, 1973). In particular:
(a) D.C. Coleman, 'Textile Growth,' pp. 1-21.
(b) Joan Thirsk, 'The Fantastical Folly of Fashion: The English Stocking Knitting Industry, 1500-1700,' pp. 50-73.
(c) N.B. Harte, 'The Rise of Protection and the English Linen Trade, 1690-1790,' pp. 74-112.
(d) S.D. Chapman, 'Industrial Capital Before the Industrial Revolution: An Analysis of the Assets of a Thousand Textile Entrepreneurs, c. 1730-1750,' pp. 113-37.
(e) R.G. Wilson, 'The Supremacy of the Yorkshire Cloth Industry in the Eighteenth Century,' pp. 225-46.
* (f) R.M. Hartwell, 'A Revolution in the Character and Destiny of English Wool,' pp. 320-38.
38. Walter Endrei, 'English Kerseys in Eastern Europe with Special Reference to Hungary,' Textile History, 5 (1974), 90-99.
39. Jennifer Tann, 'The Textile Millwright in the Early Industrial Revolution,' Textile History, 5 (1974), 80 - 89.
40. Kenneth G. Ponting, Wool and Water: Bradford-on-Avon and the River Frame (London, 1975).
41. Joan Thirsk, Economic Policy and Projects (Oxford, 1978). Contains a discussion of the New Draperies and of the relationship of textiles to agriculture in the seventeenth century.
42. D.J. Dickerson, 'Fulling in the West Riding Woollen Cloth Industry, 1689-1770,' Textile History, 10 (1979), 127-41.
** 43. George D. Ramsay, The English Woollen Industry, 1500 - 1750, Studies in Economic and Social History (London, 1982).
* 44. Eric Kerridge, Textile Manufactures in Early Modern England (Manchester, 1985).
45. Trevor Fawcett, 'Argonauts and Commercial Travellers: The Foreign Marketing of Norwich Stuffs in the Later Eighteenth Century,' Textile History, 16:2 (Autumn 1985), 151 - 82.
46. Ursula Priestley, 'The Fabric of Stuffs: the Norwich Textile Industry, c. 1650 - 1750,' Textile History, 16:2 (Autumn 1985), 183 - 210.
* 47. John Munro, 'Textile Technology,' and 'Textile Workers,' in Joseph R. Strayer, et al, eds., Dictionary of the Middle Ages, Vol. XI (New York: MacMillan, 1988), pp. 693 - 715.
48. Ursula Priestley, The Fabric of Stuffs: The Norwich Textile Industry from 1565, Centre of East Anglian Studies, University of East Anglia (Norwich, 1990).
49. John H. Munro, Textiles, Towns, and Trade: Essays in the Economic History of Late-Medieval England and the Low Countries, Variorum Collected Studies series CS 442 (London, 1994).
50. Carole Shammas, 'The Decline of Textile Prices in England and British America prior to Industrialization,' Economic History Review, 2nd ser., 47:3 (August 1994), 483 - 507.
51. Michael Zell, 'Credit in the Pre-Industrial English Woollen Industry,'The Economic History Review, 2nd ser., 49:4 (Nov. 1996), 667-91.
* 52. Negley B. Harte, ed., The New Draperies in the Low Countries and England, 1300 - 1800, Pasold Studies in Textile History, Vol. 10 (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1997).
a) Patrick Chorley, 'The Evolution of the Woollen, 1300 - 1700,' pp. 7-34
b) John Munro, 'The Origin of the English 'New Draperies': The Resurrection of an Old Flemish Industry, 1270 - 1570,' pp. 35-127.
c) Robert S. Duplessis, 'One Theory, Two Draperies, Three Provinces, and a Multitude of Fabrics: the New Drapery of French Flanders, Hainaut, and the Tournaisis, c.1500 - c.1800,' pp. 129-72.
d) Leo Noordegraaf, 'The New Draperies in the Northern Netherlands, 1500 - 1800,' pp. 173-196.
e) Martha C. Howell, 'Woman's Work in the New and Light Draperies of the Low Countries,' pp. 197-216.
f) B. A. Holderness, 'The Reception and Distribution of the New Draperies in England,' pp. 217-44.
g) Luc Martin, 'The Rise of the New Draperies in Norwich, 1550 - 1622,' pp. 245-74.
h) Ursula Priestley, 'Norwich Stuffs, 1600 - 1700,' pp. 275-88.
See also the review, by Karel Davids (Amsterdam) in Journal of Economic History, 59:3 (Sept. 1999), 801-03; and also reviews in The Economic History Review, 2nd ser., 51:4 (1998), 825-26; and Textile History, 29:2 (Autumn 1998), 231.
53. J.N. Hare, 'Growth and Recession in the Fifteenth-Century Economy: the Wiltshire Textile Industry and the Countryside,' The Economic History Review, 2nd ser., 52:1 (February 1999), 1-26.
54. John Munro, 'The Symbiosis of Towns and Textiles: Urban Institutions and the Changing Fortunes of Cloth Manufacturing in the Low Countries and England, 1280 - 1570,' The Journal of Early Modern History: Contacts, Comparisons, Contrasts, 3, no.1 (February 1999): 1-73.
E. The Knitting, Linen, Early Cotton Industry, and other Textile Industries in Early-Modern Europe and Great Britain, 1500 - 1750
* 1. Julia de Lacy Mann and Alfred P. Wadsworth, The Cotton Trade and Industrial Lancashire, 1600-1780 (Manchester University Press, 1931; reprinted 1965). A classic study.
2. Michael M. Edwards, The Growth of the British Cotton Trade, 1780 - 1815 (Manchester and New York, 1967).
3. Stanley D. Chapman, 'The Genesis of the British Hosiery Industry, 1600-1750,' Textile History, 3 (1972), 7-50.
4. N.B. Harte and K.G. Ponting, eds., Textile History and Economic History: Essays in Honour of Miss Julia de Lacy Mann (Manchester University Press, 1973). In particular:
(a) D.C. Coleman, 'Textile Growth,' pp. 1-21.
(b) Joan Thirsk, 'The Fantastical Folly of Fashion: The English Stocking Knitting Industry, 1500-1700,' pp. 50-73.
(c) N.B. Harte, 'The Rise of Protection and the English Linen Trade, 1690-1790,' pp. 74-112.
(d) S.D. Chapman, 'Industrial Capital Before the Industrial Revolution: An Analysis of the Assets of a Thousand Textile Entrepreneurs, c. 1730-1750,' pp. 113-37.
(e) R.G. Wilson, 'The Supremacy of the Yorkshire Cloth Industry in the Eighteenth Century,' pp. 225-46.
* (f) R.M. Hartwell, 'A Revolution in the Character and Destiny of English Wool,' pp. 320-38.
5. A.J. Durie, 'The Fine Linen Industry in Scotland, 1707-1822,' Textile History, 7 (1976), 173-85.
6. Paul Richards, 'The State and Early Industrial Capitalism: The Case of the Handloom Weavers,' Past and Present, no. 83 (May 1979), 91 - 115.
7. T.S. Willan, 'Manchester Clothiers in the Early Seventeenth Century,' Textile History, 10 (1979), 175-83.
8. Alan Rogers, 'Rural Industries and Social Structure: the Framework Knitting Industry of South Nottinghamshire, 1670-1840,' Textile History, 12 (1981), 7-36.
9. Dennis R. Mills, 'Rural Industries and Social Structure: Framework Knitters in Leicestershire, 1670-1851,' Textile History, 13 (Autumn 1982), 183-204.
10. C. Gulvin, 'The Origins of Framework Knitting in Scotland,' Textile History, 14 (Spring 1983), 57-66.
11. Margaret Spufford, The Great Reclothing of Rural England: Petty Chapmen and Their Wares in the Seventeenth Century (London, 1984).
12. Clark Nardinelli, 'Technology and Unemployment: The Case of the Handloom Weavers,' Southern Economic Journal, 53 (July 1986), 87 - 94.
13. John S. Lyons, 'Family Response to Economic Decline: Handloom Weavers in Early Nineteenth-Century Lancashire,' Research in Economic History, 12 (1989), 45-91.
14. Anne F. Sutton, 'The Early Linen and Worsted Industry of Norfolk and the Evolution of the London Mercers' Company,' Norfolk Archaeology: A Journal of Archaeology and Local History, 40 (1989), 201 - 225.
15. Audrey Douglas, 'Midsummer in Salisbury: The Tailors' Guild and Confraternity, 1444 - 1642,' Renaissance and Reformation, new ser. 13 (1989), 35 - 51.
16. Adrienne Hood, 'Material Culture and Textiles: An Overview,' Material History Bulletin, 31 (Spring 1990), 5 - 10.
17. Stanley Chapman, 'Industrialization and Production: A Bibliographic Survey,' Material History Bulletin, 31 (Spring 1990), 15 - 22.
18. Joan Thirsk, 'Popular Consumption and the Mass Market in the Sixteenth to Eighteenth Centuries,' Material History Bulletin, 31 (Spring 1990), 51 - 58.
19. Grant McCracken, 'Textile History and the Consumer Epidemic: An Anthropological Approach to Popular Consumption and the Mass Market,' Material History Bulletin, 31 (Spring 1990), 59 - 64.
20. Beverly Lemire, 'Reflections on the Character of Consumerism, Popular Fashion and the English Market in the Eighteenth Century,' Material History Bulletin, 31 (Spring 1990), 65 - 70.
21. Christine Hallas, 'Cottage and Mill: The Textile Industry in Wensleydale and Swaledale in the Nineteenth Century,' Textile History, 21 (Autumn 1990), 203 - 22.
22. Pamela Sharpe, 'Literally Spinsters: A New Interpretation of Local Economy and Demography in Colyton in the Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries,' Economic History Review, 2nd ser. 44 (February 1991), 46 - 65.
23. Patrick O'Brien, Trevor Griffiths, and Philip Hunt, 'Political Components of the Industrial Revolution: Parliament and the English Cotton Industry, 1660 - 1774,' Economic History Review, 2nd ser. 44 (August 1991), 395-423.
24. Negley B. Harte, 'The Economics of Clothing in the Late Seventeenth Century,' Textile History, 22:2 (Autumn 1991), 277 - 96.
25. Lorna Weatherill, 'Consumer Behaviour, Textiles and Dress in the Late Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries,' Textile History, 22:2 (Autumn 1991), 297 - 310.
26. Beverly Lemire, ' 'A Good Stock of Cloathes': The Changing Market for Cotton Clothing in Britain, 1750 - 1800,' Textile History, 22:2 (Autumn 1991), 311 - 28.
27. Beverly Lemire, Fashion's Favourite: The Cotton Trade and the Consumer in Britain, 1600 - 1800, Pasold Studies in Textile History (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1991).
28. Trevor Griffiths, Philip Hunt, and Patrick K. O'Brien, 'Inventive Activity in the British Textile Industry, 1700 - 1800,' The Journal of Economic History, 52:4 (December 1992), 881 - 906.
29. Carole Shammas, 'The Decline of Textile Prices in England and British America prior to Industrialization,' Economic History Review, 2nd ser., 47:3 (August 1994), 483 - 507.
30. Pamela V. Ulrich, 'From Fustian to Merino: The Rise of Textiles Using Cotton Before and After the Gin,' Agricultural History, 68:2 (Spring 1994), 219-31. [Special symposium issue: Eli Whitney's Cotton Gin, 1793-1993: A Symposium, ed. David O. Whitten.]
31. C.K. Harley and N.F.R. Crafts, 'Cotton Textiles and Industrial Output Growth during the Industrial Revolution,' Economic History Review, 2nd ser., 48:1 (February 1995), 134-44.
32. Richard J. Sullivan, 'Patent Counts and Textile Invention: A Comment on Griffiths, Hunt, and O'Brien,' and Patrick K. O'Brien, Trevor Griffiths, and Philip Hunt, 'There is Nothing Outside the Text, and There is No Safety in Numbers: A Reply to Sullivan,' Journal of Economic History, 55:3 (September 1995), 666-670, 671-72.
33. Mary B. Rose, ed., The Lancashire Cotton Industry: A History Since 1700 (Preston: Lancashire County Books, 1996).
34. Carlo Marco Belfanti, 'Fashion and Innovation: The Origins of the Italian Hosiery Industry in the Sixteenth and Seventeenth Centuries,' Textile History, 27:2 (Autumn 1996), 132-47.
35. Agnes M. M. Lyons, 'The Textile Fabrics of India and the Huddersfield Cloth Industry,' Textile History, 27:2 (Autumn 1996), 172-94.
36. Beverly Lemire, Dress, Culture, and Commerce: The English Clothing Trade Before the Factory, 1660 - 1800 (London: Macmillan, 1997).
37. Sheilagh C. Ogilvie, State Corporatism and Proto-Industry: The Württemberg Black Forest, 1580 - 1797, Cambridge Studies in Population, Economy and Society in Past Time no. 33 (Cambridge and New York: Cambridge University Press, 1997). On the worsted textile industry of SW Germany.
38. Marilyn Cohen, ed., The Warp of Ulster's Past: Interdisciplinary Perspectives on the Irish Linen Industry, 1700 - 1920 (London: Macmillan, 1997).
39. Stephan R. Epstein, 'Craft Guilds, Apprenticeship, and Technological Change in Preindustrial Europe,' Journal of Economic History, 58:3 (September 1998), 684-713.
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41. Jon Stobart, 'Textile Industries in North-West England in the Early Eighteenth Century: A Geographical Approach,' Textile History, 29:1 (Spring 1998), 3-18.
42. Maureen Fennell Mazzaoui, ed., Textiles: Production, Trade and Demand, An Expanding World: The European Impact on World History, 1450 - 1800, vol. 12 (London: Ashgate Publishing Ltd., 1998)
Murat Cizakça, 'Incorporation of the Middle East Into the European World-Economy.'
Edmund Herzig, 'The Iranian Raw Silk Trade and European Manufacture in the 17th and 18th Centuries.'
Adrienne D. Hood, 'British North America: The Gender Division of Labor in the Production of Textiles in 18th-Century Rural Pennsylvania (Rethinking the Ne w England Model).'
Manuel Miño Grijalva, 'Proto-industrial colonial?'
Douglas C. Libby, 'Reconsidering Textile Production in Late Colonial Brazil: New Evidence from Minas Gerais.'
Kang Chao, 'La production textile dans la Chine traditionelle.'
William B. Hauser, 'Textiles and Trade in Tokugawa Japan.'
Joseph J. Brennig, 'Textile Producers and Production in Late 17th-Century Coromandel.'
S. Arasratnam, 'Weavers, Merchants and Company: The Handloom Industry in South-eastern India, 1750 - 1790.'
Kenneth R. Hall, 'The Textile Industry in Southeast Asia, 1400 - 1800.'
Carolyn Keyes Adenaike, 'West African Textiles, 1500 - 1800.'
Jan Vansina, 'Raffia Cloth in West Central Africa.'
43. David J. Jeremy, Artisans, Entrepreneurs and Machines: Essays on the Early Anglo-American Textile Industries, 1770 - 1840s, Variorum Collected Studies Series CS608 (London and Brookfield, 1998).
44. Javier Cuenca Esteban, 'Factory Costs, Market Prices, and Indian Calicos: Cotton Textile Prices Revisited, 1779 - 1831,' The Economic History Review, 2nd ser., 52:4 (November 1999), 749 -55.
45. C. Knick Harley, 'Cotton Textile Prices Revisited: A Response to Cuenca Esteban', The Economic History Review, 2nd ser., 52:4 (November 1999), 756-65.
46. Anne F. Sutton, 'Some Aspects of the Linen Trade, c.1130s to 1500, and the Part Played by the Mercers of London,' Textile History, 30:2 (Autumn 1999), 155-75.
QUESTIONS:
1. What were the 'New Draperies', in England; and how did they differ from the Old Draperies?
2. What are the differences between the 'New Draperies' in England and the nouvelle draperies (i.e. New Draperies) in the Low Countries? What are the relationships between the English New Draperies and the draperies légères and sayetteries in the Low Countries?
3. Textiles: what are the differences between and amongst the following: woollens, worsteds, says, stuffs? What are the differences between woollen and worsted yarns?
4. What are the origins of the English 'New Draperies': in what respects do they represent a revival of ancient forms of textile making? How do the Flemish sayetteries of the 15th and 16th centuries resemble those of the 12th and 13th centuries, especially those of Hondschoote (Flanders)?
5. What impact did the Revolt of the Netherlands, from 1568, have upon the origins or rebirth of the English New Draperies: in particular, the exile or flight of Flemish refugee artisans (to Holland as wel as to England).
6. Why was East Anglia the original home of medieval English worsted manufacture; and why did it become as well the homeland of the New Draperies, from the 1560s?
7. Explain the structural changes in the English textile industries: the gradual decline of the Old Draperies and the rise of the New Draperies, in terms of:
a) supply factors:
i) changes in the production, types (sheep breeds), and qualities of English wool
ii) the transfer of labour and capital from the Old Draperies
b) demand factors:
i) declining or saturated markets for the Old Draperies
ii) expansion of new reginal markets more favourable to the products of the New Draperies
iii) changes in customs and fashions
iv) changes in the income structure of European demand for textiles.
8. How, when, where, and why did the rise of the New Draperies compensate for the decline of the Old Draperies, by the mid to later 17th century?
Table 1.
| Features | THE OLD DRAPERIES: WOOLLENS | THE NEW DRAPERIES: WORSTEDS AND STUFFS |
| Wools for Warps and Wefts | Short-stapled, very fine, curly, scaly, soft wools: very costly. Originally English: Shropshire, Herefordshire, Cotswolds, Lincs.; later, Spanish merino wools | Long-stapled, straight-fibred, coarse wools: relatively cheap; but in some hybrid or mixed fabrics, short-stapled wools were used for the weft. Some interwoven with goat's hair, silk, etc. |
| Wool preparation | After initial scouring, wools were oiled or greased (olive oil, butter) | Wools were left dry, ungreased, after scouring; but if short-stapled wools were used for the weft, they were oiled |
| Yarn preparation | wools were carded, warp and weft (though combed in medieval era) | wools were combed, at least for the warp; if short-stapled wools used for the weft, they were also carded |
| Spinning | carded wools were spun on the spinning wheel; in medieval era, combed warps were spun on the distaff or 'rock'; Saxony wheel with flyer in use by 16th century | combed wools originally spun with the distaff; but by the 16th century, the Saxony wheel was used for both warp and weft |
| Weaving | warp and weft yarns were woven on a broadloom with two weavers | yarns were more commonly woven on a single-weaver narrow loom |
| Fulling | When woven, the broadcloths were intensively fulled [usually at a water-powered fulling mill] to degrease the cloth, to felt and shrink the cloth by about half | Pure worsteds were not fulled (i.e. with dry worsted yarns for warp and weft); but hybrid fabrics with greased carded wefts were partially fulled, if only to degrease the cloth |
| Finishing | Fulled woollens were stretched on a tentering frame and subjected to preliminary napping; when dried renapped and shorn several times with large shears; and then dyed with costly dyes | No napping or shearing; woven cloths were subjected to simple bleaching and/or dyeing; and then calendared (pressed with steam irons); inexpensive dyes |
| Names | West Country, Suffolk, Essex broadcloths; later: Spanish medleys with Spanish merino wools | Worsteds, says, bays, serges, stuffs, bombazines, perpetuanas, honscots, ostades, etc. Mixed 'stuffs' with combed worsted warps and carded woollen wefts |
warps: the foundation yarns stretched between the warp and cloth-beam rollers on the loom
wefts: the yarn, carried by a wooden shuttle, that is inserted between (above and below) groups of warps to effect the weaving
Table 2:
| TEXTILE AND PLACE | WOOLLENS ENGLAND | WOOLLENS FLANDERS | WORSTEDS FLANDERS | WORSTEDS ENGLAND |
| Date | 1551 | 1510; 1546 | 1571 | 1578 |
| Name | Short Broadcloth | Armentières: Oultreffin | Hondschoote: Double Say | Single Bay
|
| Length on Loom | 32.2 yd | 30.6 yd |
| |
| Finished Length | 24.0 yd | 23.0 yd | 28.1 yd | 34.0 yd |
| Width on Loom | 2.3 yd | 1.1 yd | ||
| Finished Width | 1.8 yd | 1.5 yd | 1.0 yd | 1.8 yd |
| Area in sq yds | 42.0 yd2 | 34.5 yd | 26.9 yd2 | 59.5 yd2 |
| Weight | 60.0 lb. | 53.2 lb. | 16.0 lb. | 24.0 lb. |
| Weight per sq yd | 1.43 lb. | 1.54 lb. | 0.60 lb. | 0.40 lb. |
| grams per sq metre | 775 | 821 | 322 | 207 |
| Table 3:
| |||||
| Drapery: | Name of | Dates of the | Wools | Warp | Weight in kg |
| Town | Textile | Ordinances | Used | Count | on Loom |
| A. Traditional Old Draperies: | |||||
| Woollens | |||||
| Ghent | Dickedinnen 5 Seal | 1456-62; 1546 | English: Fine March, Cotswolds, Berkshire | 2066 | 38.179 |
| Leuven | Oppersten Zegel | 1519 | English: Middle March, Cotswolds, Berkshire | 2400 | 42.090 |
| Mechelen | Gulden Aeren | 1544 | English: Leominster (Herefordshire) | 3120 | n.s |
| Suffolk, Essex | Suffolk Short Cloths | 1552 | English: short-stapled | n.s | n.s |
| B. Nouvelles Draperies: | |||||
| Woollens | |||||
| Armentières | Oultreffin | 1510; 1546 | Spanish (2/3) + English: Cotswolds, Lindsay, Berks. | 1800 | 40.823 |
| Diksmuide | Grooten Claus | 1523; 1546 | Spanish, English, Scottish, Rhenish, Flemish | 1968 | 38.968 |
| Haubourdin | Oultreffin | 1539 | Spanish (2/3) + English | 1800 | 38.040 |
| Bruges | Dobbel Leeuwen | 1544 | Spanish merino exclusively | 2010 | n.s |
|
C. Draperies Légères: |
|||||
| Worsteds, Says, Stuffs | |||||
| Bergues-St.-Winoc | Fine narrow say | 1537 | Flemish, Artesian | 1400 | n.s |
| Hondshoote | Small double say | 1571; 1576 | Flemish, Scottish, Frisian, Kempen | 1800 | n.s |
| Colchester (Essex) | Single bays | 1579 | English long (warp) & short (weft)-stapled | n.s | n.s |
| Essex | Broad says | 1579 | English long stapled (warp); wefts n.s. | n.s | n.s |
| Drapery: | ||||||||
| Town | Length | Width on | Final Length | Final Width | Area in | Warps | Weight | Weight |
| on Loom in m. | Loom in m. | Metres | Metres | m2 | per cm | in kg. | g/m2 | |
| A. Traditional Old Draperies: | ||||||||
| Woollens | ||||||||
| Ghent | 29.750 | 2.5375 | 21.0000 | 1.663 | 34.913 | 12.43 | 22.126 | 633.77 |
| Leuven | 29.885 | 2.7800 | 20.8500 | 1.738 | 36.227 | 13.81 | 25.254 | 697.11 |
| Mechelen | 33.072 | 2.7560 | 20.6700 | 1.723 | 35.604 | 18.11 | 27.217 | 764.42 |
| Suffolk, Essex | n.s | n.s | 22.5552 | 1.645 | 37.095 | n.s | 29.030 | 782.58 |
| B. Nouvelles Draperies: | ||||||||
| Woollens | ||||||||
| Armentières | 29.400 | 2.1000 | 21.0000 | 1.400 | 29.400 | 12.86 | 24.123 | 820.50 |
| Diksmuide | 28.700 | 2.5375 | 21.0000 | 1.488 | 31.238 | 13.23 | 23.195 | 742.54 |
| Haubourdin | 29.400 | 2.1000 | 21.0000 | 1.488 | 31.238 | 12.10 | 22.267 | 712.84 |
| Bruges | 30.800 | 2.4500 | 21.0000 | 1.488 | 31.238 | 13.51 | 22.267 | 712.84 |
| C. Draperies Légères: | ||||||||
| Worsteds, Says, Stuffs | ||||||||
| Bergues-St.-Winoc | n.s | n.s | 28.0000 | 0.700 | 19.600 | 20.00 | 5.103 | 260.35 |
| Hondshoote | 28.000 | 1.006 | 25.7250 | 0.875 | 22.509 | 20.57 | 7.257 | 322.42 |
| Colchester (Essex) | n.s | n.s | 31.9532 | 0.940 | 30.030 | n.s | 9.979 | 332.31 |
| Essex | n.s | n.s | 9.3984 | 0.940 | 8.833 | n.s | 1.247 | 141.19 |
Table 4: Prices of Ghent Dickedinnen Woollens, Mechelen Rooslaken Woollens, and Hondschoote Says, and the Daily Wages for an Antwerp Mason, 1535 - 1544: in pence and pounds groot Flemish
| Year | Ghent Dicke-dinnen in £ groot | Mechelen Black Rooslaken in £ groot | Hond-schoote
Single
Says in
£ groot |
Hond-schoote
Double
Says in
£ groot |
No. Days of Mason's Wages to buy one Ghent Dicke-dinnen | No. Days of a Mason's Wages to buy one Hond-schoote Single Say | Antwerp Master Mason's Daily Wage in d groot | Value of Ghent Dicke-dinnen in Antwerp consumer- baskets | Value of Hond-shoote Single Says in Antwerp consumer-baskets | Value of Antwerp Basket of Consumables in d. groot Flemish |
| 1535 | 14.150 | 10.667 | 328.660 | 10.333 | 12.637 | 268.730 | ||||
| 1536 | 14.250 | 10.667 | 310.910 | 11.000 | 11.497 | 297.470 | ||||
| 1537 | 14.500 | 11.333 | 298.280 | 11.667 | 13.683 | 254.330 | ||||
| 1538 | 14.500 | 11.333 | 0.967 | 2.278 | 274.730 | 18.320 | 12.667 | 11.775 | 0.785 | 295.530 |
| 1539 | 15.000 | 11.333 | 0.945 | 2.184 | 284.200 | 17.900 | 12.667 | 11.984 | 0.755 | 300.400 |
| 1540 | 15.000 | 11.333 | 0.835 | 1.961 | 284.200 | 15.820 | 12.667 | 12.365 | 0.688 | 291.130 |
| 1541 | 15.500 | 11.333 | 0.879 | 2.015 | 293.680 | 16.650 | 12.667 | 13.381 | 0.759 | 278.000 |
| 1542 | 14.500 | 11.333 | 0.838 | 2.005 | 274.730 | 15.880 | 12.667 | 11.853 | 0.685 | 293.600 |
| 1543 | 14.000 | 11.333 | 0.783 | 1.775 | 240.000 | 13.420 | 14.000 | 10.364 | 0.580 | 324.200 |
| 1544 | 14.000 | 11.333 | 0.908 | 1.942 | 240.000 | 15.570 | 14.000 | 9.571 | 0.621 | 351.070 |
Sources: Stadsarchief Gent, Stadsrekeningen 1534/5-1544/5, Reeks 400: nos.46-52; Stadsarchief Mechelen, Stadsrekeningen 1534/5-1544/5, nos.209-19; Herman Van der Wee, Growth of the Antwerp Market and the European Economy, 14th to 16th Centuries, 3 vols. (The Hague, 1963), 1:457-68 (Appendix 39); sources cited in Tables 1 and 2.
Notes:
a. Converted from Brabant groten: 1.5d Brabant groot = 1.0d Flemish groot (gros)
b. Ghent woollens (dickedinnen): 30 ells by 9.5 quarter ells (made from English March and Cotswolds wools).
c. Mechelen woollens (Rooslaken): 30 ells by 10 quarter ells (March wools), prices converted from pond groot
Brabant into pond groot Flemish
d. Hondschoote single says: 18 ells by 5 quarter ells: Hondschoote price.
e. Hondschoote double says: 36.75 ells by 5 quarter ells: Antwerp price.
Table 5.
| Year | Hondschoote | Cloths | Hondschoote |
| Drapery Tax Farm | represented | Cloth Sales: | |
| in £ parisis | by tax farm | Exports | |
| 240d per £ parisis | 8d. per cloth | in Single Says* | |
| 1401-05 | 54.80 | 1,644 | |
| 1406-10 | 78.00 | 2,340 | |
| 1411-15 | 85.60 | 2,568 | |
| 1416-20 | 117.60 | 3,528 | |
| 1421-25 | 152.80 | 4,584 | |
| 1426-30 | 165.80 | 4,974 | |
| 1431-35 | 172.00 | 5,160 | |
| 1436-40 | 176.00 | 5,280 | |
| 1441-45 | 180.00 | 5,400 | |
| 1446-50 | 278.00 | 8,340 | |
| 1451-55 | 345.60 | 10,368 | |
| 1456-60 | 388.00 | 11,640 | |
| 1461-65 | 404.00 | 12,120 | |
| 1466-70 | 435.20 | 13,056 | |
| 1471-75 | 464.00 | 13,920 | |
| 1476-80 | 424.00 | 12,720 | |
| 1481-85 | 455.00 | 13,650 | |
| 1486-90 | 488.70 | 14,661 | |
| 1491-95 | 399.95 | 11,999 | |
| 1496-1500 | 424.00 | 12,720 | |
| 1501-05 | 588.00 | 17,640 | |
| 1506-10 | 667.20 | 20,016 | |
| 1511-15 | 757.60 | 22,728 | |
| 1516-20 | 980.00 | 29,400 | |
| 1521-25 | 1,071.60 | 32,148 | |
| 1526-30 | 1,163.20 | 34,896 | 31,583.44 |
| 1531-35 | 1,452.80 | 43,584 | 41,184.50 |
| 1536-40 | 1,439.20 | 43,176 | 42,761.40 |
| 1541-45 | 1,580.80 | 47,424 | 44,547.60 |
| 1546-50 | 1,634.80 | 49,044 | 45,453.40 |
| 1551-55 | 2,228.80 | 66,864 | 57,387.40 |
| 1556-60 | 2,472.40 | 74,172 | 67,026.20 |
| 1561-65 | 2,946.40 | 88,392 | 89,699.60 |
| 1566-70 | 2,987.20 | 89,616 | 93,057.20 |
| 1571-75 | 2,716.00 | 81,480 | 82,772.40 |
| 1576-80 | 2,224.00 | 66,720 | 81,550.50 |
| 1581-85 | 384.00 | 11,520 | 16,961.20 |
| 1586-90 | 494.00 | 14,820 | 12,127.80 |
| 1591-95 | 724.00 | 21,720 | 20,039.70 |
* A fine narrow say measured 28.0 m (40 ells) by 0.7 m (1 ell), with a finished area of 19.60 m2, and with a weight of 260.4 grams per sq. metre; a small double say measured 25.725 m (36.75 ells) by 0.875 m (1.25 ells), with a finished area of 22.509 m2, and with a weight of 322.4 grams per sq. metre. In the 1540s, at the Antwerp market, Hondschoote single says sold for £0.783 to £0.967 groot Flemish (15s 8d. to 19s 4d. groot Flemish), which represented, in value, 13.42 days' wages to 18.32 days wages for an Antwerp master mason, then earning 12.67d (1540-42) to 14.00d. groot per day (from 1543).
Source: Emile Coornaert, La draperie-sayetterie d'Hondschoote, XIVe-XVIIIe siècles (Paris, 1930); calculated from Appendix IV, 485-90 (data extracted from: Archives départementales du Nord, Section B. État général, 4068-4236, 17600); Appendix V, 493-95 (data extracted from Stadsarchief Hondschoote, Series GG 53, 54, 70, 38, 398, 82; CC 89, 40-50, 61-82; and HH 12-13). Note: double says are counted as two single says; John Munro, 'Textiles as Articles of Consumption in Flemish Towns, 1330 - 1575,' Bijdragen tot de geschiedenis, 81:1-3 (1998): 275-88.
Table 6.
Average Prices of English Textiles, Recorded in Retailers' Inventories
in pence (d.) per yard, in current and constant values, 1578 - 1738,
Constant values based upon the mean value of the price indices in the Phelps Brown & Hopkins 'Basket of Consumables' Index for 1660- 1738*
| Type of Textile | 1578-99:
current |
1578-99:
constant |
1600-40:
current |
1600-40:
constant |
1660-99:
current |
1700-38:
current |
| Wool-Based | ||||||
| Broadcloth | 80 | 138 | 65 | 72 | 56 | 54 |
| Kersey | 32 | 55 | 37 | 41 | 21 | 25 |
| Freize | 10 | 17 | 14 | 15 | 22 | 21 |
| Serge | 24 | 41 | 22 | 24 | 24 | 19 |
| Baize | 21 | 36 | 31 | 34 | 18 | 10 |
| Flannel | 10 | 17 | 10 | 11 | 10 | 15 |
| Stuffs | - | - | 12 | 13 | 9 | 9 |
| Linen-Cotton | ||||||
| Fine Holland | 48 | 83 | 42 | 46 | 41 | 32 |
| Linen | 14 | 24 | 20 | 22 | 11 | 13 |
| Blue linen | - | - | 12 | 13 | 10 | 10 |
| Osnaburg | 6 | 10 | 9 | 10 | 8 | 8 |
| Fustian | 18 | 31 | 12 | 13 | 8 | 10 |
| Calico | 16 | 28 | 12 | 13 | 12 | 24 |
| Scotch cloth | - | - | 15 | 17 | 13 | 10 |
Source: Carole Shammas, 'The Decline of Textile Prices in England and British America Prior to Industrialization', Economic History Review, 2nd ser., 47:3 (August 1994), Table 1, p. 484.
* The author in fact used the mean index for 1660-99 as the base; but noting that prices were approximately the same in the following period 1700-38, made no adjustments for the prices in that final period. Therefore, in effect, the base period is 1660-1738.
Table 7:
|
EXPORTS OF ENGLISH BROADCLOTHS, 1347/48 to 1548/49 | ||||||
| English Broadcloth = 24 yds by 1.75 yds, for cloths of assise: 4 straits and dozens = 1 broadcloth; and 3 kerseys = 1 broadcloth. | ||||||
| From one sack of wool, 4.333 broadcloths could be manufactured | ||||||
| Year | Denizen | Hansard | Other Aliens | TOTAL | London | London as |
| Michaelmas | Exports | Exports | Exports | EXPORTS | Total | % of Total |
| 1348-50 | 2,246 | 310 | 2,556 | |||
| 1351-55 | 1,586 | 335 | 1,921 | |||
| 1356-60 | 7,376 | 174 | 1,511 | 9,061 | ||
| 1361-65 | 9,099 | 1,020 | 1,598 | 11,717 | ||
| 1366-70 | 10,978 | 1,310 | 2,240 | 14,527 | ||
| 1371-75 | 9,102 | 1,240 | 1,869 | 12,211 | ||
| 1376-80 | 9,673 | 1,383 | 2,586 | 13,643 | ||
| 1381-85 | 13,949 | 2,800 | 5,493 | 22,242 | ||
| 1386-90 | 17,192 | 3,125 | 5,293 | 25,610 | ||
| 1391-95 | 22,974 | 6,346 | 10,205 | 39,525 | ||
| 1396-00 | 23,318 | 5,646 | 9,811 | 38,775 | ||
| 1401-05 | 19,450 | 6,548 | 8,571 | 34,570 | ||
| 1406-10 | 12,997 | 6,568 | 12,181 | 31,746 | 14,251 | 44.89% |
| 1411-15 | 12,284 | 4,980 | 9,919 | 27,183 | 14,493 | 53.31% |
| 1416-20 | 14,051 | 5,722 | 8,205 | 27,977 | 12,698 | 45.39% |
| 1421-25 | 21,180 | 6,935 | 12,160 | 40,275 | 16,812 | 41.74% |
| 1426-30 | 20,334 | 5,304 | 14,768 | 40,406 | 17,498 | 43.30% |
| 1431-35 | 25,474 | 4,062 | 10,492 | 40,027 | 17,069 | 42.64% |
| 1441-45 | 28,163 | 11,336 | 16,957 | 56,456 | 23,938 | 42.40% |
| 1446-50 | 25,286 | 9,301 | 11,259 | 45,847 | 14,229 | 31.04% |
| 1451-55 | 20,785 | 8,214 | 7,701 | 36,700 | 16,419 | 44.74% |
| 1456-60 | 18,911 | 10,017 | 7,562 | 36,489 | 16,162 | 44.29% |
| 1460-65 | 16,046 | 8,584 | 4,371 | 29,002 | 16,041 | 55.31% |
| 1466-70 | 21,255 | 5,807 | 10,386 | 37,447 | 20,788 | 55.51% |
| 1471-75 | 20,705 | 3,415 | 12,417 | 36,537 | 23,328 | 63.85% |
| 1476-80 | 32,185 | 8,226 | 10,030 | 50,441 | 34,444 | 68.29% |
| 1481-85 | 29,191 | 13,439 | 11,568 | 54,198 | 36,293 | 66.96% |
| 1486-90 | 25,892 | 13,740 | 10,373 | 50,005 | 35,122 | 70.24% |
| 1491-95 | 29,513 | 15,100 | 12,332 | 56,945 | 35,893 | 63.03% |
| 1496-00 | 35,668 | 17,175 | 9,740 | 62,583 | 42,746 | 68.30% |
| 1501-05 | 44,803 | 17,638 | 14,830 | 77,271 | 46,611 | 60.32% |
| 1506-10 | 46,832 | 16,984 | 20,987 | 84,803 | 52,390 | 61.78% |
| 1511-15 | 49,110 | 21,621 | 15,861 | 86,592 | 62,257 | 71.90% |
| 1516-20 | 51,128 | 20,411 | 18,559 | 90,099 | 63,084 | 70.02% |
| 1521-25 | 48,675 | 18,457 | 15,137 | 82,269 | 61,854 | 75.19% |
| 1526-30 | 56,942 | 20,402 | 16,190 | 93,534 | 72,350 | 77.35% |
| 1531-35 | 53,966 | 24,274 | 15,847 | 94,087 | 75,503 | 80.25% |
| 1536-40 | 61,008 | 30,747 | 17,523 | 109,278 | 91,731 | 83.94% |
| 1541-45 | 118,056 | 101,550 | 86.02% | |||
| 1546-50 | 135,190 | 123,780 | 91.56% | |||
| 1551-55 | 126,595 | 110,888 | 87.59% | |||
Table 8.
Exports of English Woollen Broadcloths* ('Short cloths') from London, in decennial means, from 1460-69 to 1630-39
| Years | Exports | Index | Years | Exports | Index |
| 1460-9 | 17717 | 36 | 1553-9b | ? | ? |
| 1470-9 | 26707 | 54.2 | 1560-9 | 85952 | 174.5 |
| 1480-9 | 35533 | 72.2 | 1570-9 | 90319 | 183.4 |
| 1490-9 | 39409 | 80 | 1580-9 | 98101 | 199.2 |
| 1500-9 | 49247 | 100 | 1590-9 | 101172 | 205.4 |
| 1510-9 | 61036 | 123.9 | 1601-9c | 108464 | 220.2 |
| 1520-9 | 66673 | 135.4 | 1610-9d | 105906 | 215.1 |
| 1530-9 | 80736 | 163.9 | 1620-9e | 89637 | 182 |
| 1540-9a | 110135 | 223.6 | 1630-9f | 88066 | 178.8 |
| 1550-2b | 110148 | 223.7 | 1640g | 86924 | 176.5 |
* 1 short broadcloth = 24 yards by 1.75 yards fulled.
Notes:
a. 1540-47 only
b. 1550-52 only; 1553-9 missing data
c. 1601-04 and 1606 only: mean of five years
d. 1614, 1616, and 1618 only: mean of three years
e. 1620, 1622, 1626-28 only
f. 1631-33 only: mean of four years
g. 1640 only
Table 9. Exports of Woollen Broadcloths (Short cloths) from LONDON by English Merchants, 1598 to 1640
Year Number of Broadcloths Exported
1598 100,551
1601 100,380
1602 113,512
1603 89,619
1604 112,785
1606 126,022
1614 127,215
1616 88,172
1618 102,332
1620 85,741
1622 76,624
1626 91,000 (approximately)
1627 86,800 (approximately)
1628 108,021
1631 84,334
1632 99,020
1633 80,924
1640 86,924
1 short broadcloth = 24 yards by 1.75 yards finished.
These statistics include cheaper, smaller cloths converted into notional broadcloths, for export-tax purposes, with the following ratios: 3 kerseys (18 yds by 1 yd) and 4 straits and dozens (each 12 yds by 1 yd) = 1 broadcloth.
Table 10.
| CLOTH TYPE | 1700
percent |
1720
percent |
1775
percent |
1790
percent |
| Woollens:
Broadcloths |
25.4% | 28.2% | 24.5% | 41.5% |
| Woollens:
Narrow Cloths: Kerseys, Dozens, Friezes, etc. |
15.8% | 14.7% | 10.9% | 9.0% |
| New Draperies:
Bays, says, serges, stuffs, perpetuanas |
58.8% | 57.1% | 64.6% | 49.5% |
| Total | 100.0% | 100.0% | 100.0% | 100.0% |
| TOTAL VALUE in
millions of £ sterling |
£2.82 |
£3.22 |
£4.91 |
£5.79 |
Table 11. TEXTILE, METAL, AND COLONIAL EXPORTS DURING THE INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION ERA
Exports of textile and metal products and of colonial re-exports as percentages of total exports from England and Wales (1750-9 to 1780-9) and Great Britain (1790-9 to 1820-9) in constant prices based on those of ca. 1700
| Decade | Woollens & Worsteds | Cottons | Iron and Steel | Re-Exports | Total Exports in Millions of £ (pounds) |
| 1750-9 | 48.85% | 1.0% | 4.8% | 28.6% | 12.25 |
| 1760-9 | 44.35% | 2.3% | 5.9% | 30.9% | 14.53 |
| 1770-9 | 43.0% | 2.7% | 7.3% | 35.6% | 14.42 |
| 1780-9 | 34.5% | 7.4% | 6.5% | 29.5% | 14.46 |
| 1790-9 | 29.9% | 15.0% | 6.9% | 34.8% | 27.12 |
| 1800-9 | 24.0% | 40.2% | 5.3% | 28.9% | 34.98 |
| 1810-9 | 16.0% | 53.4% | 4.5% | 25.0% | 46.72 |
| 1820-9 | 11.9% | 61.9% | 4.4% | 17.5% | 56.41 |
Source: B.R. Mitchell and Phyllis Deane, eds., Abstract of British Historical Statistics (Cambridge, 1962), pp. 279-83, 293-95.
Table 12.
| Item | Cost in Pounds Sterling | Percentage of Total
|
| Fixed Capital: in 19 looms, warping mills, and other equipment | 26.4375 | 8.19 |
| Working Capital:
Inventory of Yarns |
129.5833 | 40.16 |
| Working Capital:
Inventory of Finished Cloths |
166.6667 | 51.65 |
| TOTAL CAPITAL | 322.6875 | 100 |
Source:
Luc Martin, 'The Rise of the New Draperies in Norwich, 1550 - 1622,' in Negley B. Harte, ed., The New Draperies in the Low Countries and England, 1300 - 1800, Pasold Studies in Textile History, Vol. 10 (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1997), pp. 245-74.
1. The entry on 'Scarlet' contains an unfortunate error, inserted by an ignorant copy-editor, long after the
final text had been approved, on his own initiative, and without consulting either the editor or the author. In
the second paragraph, first sentence, the subordinate clause 'that is, as yarn or fiber rather than as woven
material' should be struck out, so that the sentence may properly read: `While all medieval scarlets were dyed
'in the grain' with kermes, some also contained additional dyes, especially woad (blue), affixed first to the
wools, and weld (yellow).' This error has been corrected both in the 2. Special issue on: